Without the Scrubbing

Transcript*

Intro

Hello there. Welcome back. My name is Paul and I am a Jedi Knight who recently lost his right arm to Darth Vader in a duel. And that is the topic for today’s video. I’ll be showing you how to tastefully do dismemberment. It can get really gruesome and ugly real fast. And you don’t want to uh know end up with an ugly figure. You don’t want that.

Um, and I’ll show you how to tastefully do it today. In fact, I have an example, perfect example for dismemberment because Nathan, one of our employees, brought in a figure to display on our display case, which you can actually view in our display case in person in our store, by the way. Um, an incredible figure, but this is the way to do it. And he’s a Warhammer painter, and Warhammer can get extreme incredibly fast. But even with the Warhammer figures, it’s tastefully and artfully done. I’ll show you.

Chaos Space Marine Example

This is what I’m talking about when it comes to artful decapitations. We have a possessed chaos space marine front and center. Um, and on the left is a poor poor Blue Ultramarine Space Marine. And you can tell that the poor Space Marine was the challenger and he ultimately lost. He’s missing both legs. His left arm has been lopped off. His right arm, the sword arm, you can tell, is on the base with a broken sword.

And he’s been run through by the demonic claw of the possessed chaos space marine. It is a gruesome scene, but despite the gruesomeness and the grim darkness, the entire point is not the blood, but the duel and the outcome and the fact that the Space Marine is now uh humiliating the loyal one. That’s the point. And it’s artfully done and still grim dark despite not having an overflow of blood. And that’s what we’re going to be doing today. Props to Nathan.

Tamiya U.S. Army Assault Infantry Set 1/35 Scale 35192

You can see this mini in person on our display case. This is the box and model kit set that we’re going to be testing the dismemberment on. This is the Tamiya 1/35th scale US Army assault infantry set. And the poor poor infantryman rifleman we’re going to be testing it on is rifleman number six already in a sort of semi-prone position.

Perfect for someone who got hit by a landmine. Yes, presumably this dude stepped on a landmine. Maybe one or both of his legs got blown off. One of them will probably be on the base uh and the other completely disintegrated. That is if I decide to cut off both, maybe just one. Who knows?

Base Options

This is the bases or base. We’ll be using the AK War Game round bases 50 mm. I’m worried that there’s not enough real estate, but who knows? Uh we’ll see. Maybe I’ll put a bit of cork and whatever I’m using outside. Um hopefully that suffices. Uh a little bit of an overlap doesn’t hurt, but I’m worried the cork may be too fragile.

Kit Unboxing and Sprue Cutting

(Building)

Assembly of the Figure

(Assembly)

More Base Options

This is the rifleman we will be demoing today. I planned on putting him on top of the AK 50 mm base, but as I finished building him, I realized there’s really no room for a crater here. Um, no room for some sort of explosion, so I may have to improvise here. Here’s the plan. Um, hopefully I can pull through. This cork board is Ammo by MIG 8837.

It is two of them. Um, and uh, what I plan to do is take one of these boards, cut some sort of hole in the middle with a complete one underneath so that the base goes squarely in the middle of this uh, two, maybe even three layer uh, kind of diorama.

But then with the base freely moving here and uh in a spot of its own, I can just remove it if I just want to demo the mini itself. But there will be a hole here about one layer deep. Perfect. Absolutely perfect. All that needs to be done is to glue, prime, paint. The CA glue I’m going to be using will be BSI Bob Smith Industries 111.

Adding a Explosion Crater

Before we move on to the painting aspect of it, let’s make the crater. So, the plan is for me to take cork, uh, form some sort of ring around here. Uh, I will prime it, paint it gray, put texture paint, and then when the texture paint dries, there’s this uh, smoothness to it, kind of like a crater shape. because without it, it’s just going to be a bunch of cork. So hopefully the smoothness of the texture paints evens the crater out.

That is the plan. And here we go. Crater done. So when I place the mini on here, it will be positioned like that. There will be bullet holes right here behind him, implying that he’s getting shot at. Um maybe the leg will be here somewhere. One of them. The other one is just completely gone. A little bit of blood here on the base itself. Little bit of blood here. Maybe water in the middle of the crater.

Priming

For the priming job, I will be using Vallejo black because in my opinion, this is the best um or at the very least smoothest acrylic black primer. It looks like a piece of burnt toast, but it’s done. At least priming wise. I’m ready to start painting. I’m not going to put in the center because it’s still drying there. But otherwise, yes, it’s prime black and ready to go.

Uniform Painting

For the uniform, we’ll be using Ionic Camo Green. Then for the helmet, we will be using Ionic Ogre Green. For the pants, uh parasite brown. For the various yellows, I’m going to be using camo green mixed with a little bit of yellow in some parts, but otherwise, these are the three main colors. For the burnt toast, I will be using two thin coats ranger cloak. Uh, this will be painted all over the all over the uh base. Um, and why am I choosing this?

Because it’s the same hue and color as Astro Granite, the technical paint uh and texture paint we will be using for the base itself. The reason why I’m keeping it the same hue is that maybe if I run out, I don’t have to paint all of it just in case. Just in case. Hopefully there is enough in here, but we’ll see.

The main brush I will be using for today is the monster brush from Army Painter. Just mix a little bit of water into the Ionic paints. Uh they’re already smoothed out the bottle. Water will a little bit of water will help improve the mix a little bit more. Not too much though. And don’t overload your brush. Here we go. Remember guys, two thin quotes. Did I say quotes? I mean coats.

Helmet time. Don’t worry, it’s a little too vibrant right now, but I will weather it.

Base Painting

For the skin, I will be applying more paints urban buff because I will be weathering him to the fullest extent. He did just get exploded on. Um, so I will be applying Agrax Earth Shade to this miniature. For the final color, I’ll be using Desert Tan. And that’s for the rifle. Here we go.

Base: Applying Citadel Technical Astrogranite 24ml Paint 27-30

The Astro Granite step. Um, basically grab a brush you don’t care for. This brush has a faded inscription of whatever it was, but it doesn’t matter. You don’t want to use even your good brushes or decent brushes for this as cleaning it off will ruin the brush. So, grab whatever brush you have to scoop it and apply it to your mini or at the very least your base, not your mini.

Just keep piling it on. Eventually, the layers of texture paint will build up to have some sort of slope here to form the crater. Now to expedite the process, by the way, I’ve already applied it, um, I started using the AK silicone brushes, which have solid sculpting tips. This one is angled and it’s perfect to kind of smooth out the inside and the outside of the crater.

So, that’s what I’m doing right here. And there’s I applied so much it’s ridiculous, but that’s kind of the point. a muddy battleground and looks good. This is why you use a random no-name brush for this, by the way, because when you take this off, it’s gone. It’s ruined. Well, if you are curious, it’s Tamiya modeling brush 87014. Now be poking holes using the humble toothpick onto those little mounds right here on the dirt to make it look like he’s still being fired at the Agrax Earth Shade applied all over and dried.

Reconfiguring the Miniature

This miniature is the very first World War II Mini I’ve ever painted. And to be honest, he’s not too bad. Obviously, not entirely accurate colors, but you know, I’ll take what I can get. Now, to cut off his legs. I’m sorry. To cut off this man’s poor leg or legs,

I haven’t decided yet. I will be using Tamiya’s Pointed Side Cutter 74035. A precise side cutter that will last you for years. Please do not use it on anything metallic or too thick. And this man’s legs should be thin enough to accommodate the side cutter. Right here should be fine. Why am I holding it like this?

No. Going back.

Blood Effects

For both the stump here and the leg, I will be applying two paints, one ionic and one atom. One will be the magenta and one will be the red. So, I’ll paint both of them with magenta all over and then I’ll apply maybe a dot or two in the middle of red. And also do the same thing for the puddles all around the base and the diorama for the blood puddles. While the magenta is still wet, start applying the red in the middle so it uh wet blends a little bit.

There we go.

Attaching the Figure to the Base

Now, using super glue or CA, whichever one you want, again, BSI 111 is what I have. You will apply it onto the man’s cheeks, his peaches. And then this is where you put him in the base or on the base, sorry. Because of the texture paint, plastic cement is no longer an option. I’m just put him in right there. Right there.

There we go.

More Blood Effects

So, all I did was apply just a little bit of the red onto the edges of his trousers. Just a little bit. Little bit. When it dries, it’s a little bit more even. And then you can compound the effect by constantly adding a little bit more.

This is where we start adding the magenta as well and the red onto the base itself. Now I’m going to do some sort of a streaking here to make it look like he crawled away from the blast. There we go. Why am I shaking? Caffeine probably. Who knows? There we go. A little bit of red in the middle. And this is where I would put and this is where I would put him.

Not.

Final Product

And while the fit itself on the base is not perfect and maybe the blood is a little too purple, which will be fixed once it’s dried, maybe. I think this is personally phenomenal. It’s not too bad. I just wish maybe the crater was a bit more pronounced. But um the final product you will see when you visit our store will be completed. There we go by itself.

And it looks incredible personally, honestly. Again, blood may be a little bit too purple. Maybe I’ll add a little bit of a dark red in there. But for now, it’s not bad. Maybe it even improves once the paint’s dried. Who knows? Let’s zoom in on the boot here. This has also been super glued. By the way, let’s do one final spin around with just the base and with the diorama as a whole. Let’s actually position this guy so it lines up a little bit better with the blood. There we go.

Paul’s Conclusion

Hope you enjoyed that video. Um, a little bit more extended than normal. Uh, however, I honestly kind of knocked it out of the park if I say so myself. You know, um, a little bit cocky, but it’s the truth. It looks incredible and it will look even better once I paint a couple more figures, maybe put some equipment sandbags on it. It’s going to look better and eventually it will be on the shelves in person in the store. So, that being said, thank you guys so much for watching.

And we hit 10K. Yeah, we hit 10K. Thank you guys for subbing. Uh and if you haven’t subbed, please sub. Uh consider uh uh leaving a like. Uh and again subbing, clicking the links down below to carry you to our socials. We are incredibly active on all of them, even Pinterest. That’s right. Any social media account that you can think of, we have one and we’re active there.

Um and also check out our real time inventory. All the items I’ve used in this video will be on the website as well. Uh, that’s it for me today.

Thank you guys so much for watching and have a wonderful day. Bye-bye.

About the Author:

Paul Catindig As someone who’s been building model kits since he was 8 years old, Paul is very knowledgeable and adept at model kit building! When he’s not building or painting kits, he spends his free time cooking, playing video games with friends, or at a restaurant patio somewhere. Hopes to make his very own movie one day.

*Video by Paul Catindig
Video Edited by Daniela Castellano
Transcript generated by youtube
Edited by Angelo Castellano