Bob Smith Industries 20 Minute Finish Cure Epoxy 13oz BSI 210


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SKU: 707336210003 Category:
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William M.
I recommend this product
20 minute cure epoxy

Have not actually used it yet….but I have been blending 5 minute and 30 minute epoxy hardners to give me the pouring period I need but a faster curing time to reduce the 24 hour curing time of the 30 minute hardner. So far I have been very satisfied with the Bob Smith products but would like to purchase larger volumes (9+ ounces) of the 5 minute cure product. Epoxy is an essential component of my wood turning hobby which is becoming a money making enterprise….imagine making money from a hobby, almost as good as getting paid to perform bluegrass music!


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Finish-Cure Epoxy

FINISH-CURE 20 min. epoxy is an excellent, low odor substitute for polyester resins. It can be used for applying fiberglass cloth to wood or by itself to give wood a surface ready for primer and paint. FINISH-CURE can be sanded the easiest of all our epoxies and is excellent for the sheeting of foam core wings. Allow 8 hours for full curing. For best results, FINISH-CURE should be heated to a temperature above 85 degrees F or applying light weight fiberglass, lay cloth on balsa first, then brush on FINISH-CURE. When fully saturated, go over the surface with a heat gun, and then squeegee off excess epoxy with a playing card from an old deck. Heat and remove excess several times for a light weight finish. If room temperature is below 70 degrees F use a heat gun on the surface several times for the next 2 hours. When dry, lightly sand, then fill surface with a low weight spakeling compound, scrapping off excess with a playing card. Sand to a smooth finish ready for primer. For heavy weight fiberglass, apply the epoxy before and after laying down the cloth. FINISH-CURE is best mixed in a disposable cup.

FINISH-CURE is and excellent substitute for polyester finishing resins. It can be used for applying fiberglass cloth to wood or used by itself to give wood a surface ready for primer and paint.

FINISH-CURE IS NOT A STRUCTURAL EPOXY. FINISH-CURE is primarily used for Coating and Finishing. It is also the best choice for applying cloth to the inside of epoxy fiberglass fuselages. It’s also commonly used for the sheeting of foam wings.

When an ounce or more is mixed in a cup the working time (pot life) is 20 minutes. When spread into thin layers the working time is approximately 40 minutes.

THE FINISH AREA MUST REMAIN ABOVE 75° FOR 8 HOURS FOR PROPER CURE. If ambient temperature is below 75°, heat FINISH-CURE Epoxy and Hardener bottles with tops removed in the microwave for 20 seconds (use less time for partial bottles). After applying, you can occasionally apply a heat gun during the curing time or cover project with a large cardboard box with a lamp placed inside to maintain a higher temperature.

For applying to lighter weight fiberglass, lay the cloth on the surface and brush FINISH-CURE through the cloth.  For heavier cloth, apply the epoxy on the surface first, then brush FINISH-CURE through the cloth. When using FINISH-CURE for the sheeting of foam wings, make sure to apply FINISH-CURE to the wood and not the foam. Acetone and isopropyl alcohol work as the best solvents for cleaning uncured epoxy from surfaces

Size: 13 oz. / 369 g combined net wt

Item: BSI-210

Contents subject to change. Price includes in store coupon.

Additional information

Weight .6 kg
Dimensions 1 × 1 × 1 cm

Epoxy Tips and Advice

All BSI epoxies are mixed with a 50-50 ratio.

Any scrap material or paper scratch pad can be used as a mixing surface.

We have found, however, that the plastic tops to coffee cans work best due to their outer border and their flexibility, which allows the unused cured epoxy to be released and thrown away.

Squeeze out equal length beads of the desired amount of epoxy, then mix together thoroughly with a popsicle stick or scrap piece of material.

Mix at room temperature and above. In cold weather, epoxy takes longer to cure (too cold and usually they never fully cure).

Acetone or rubbing alcohol works as the best solvent for cleaning epoxy from brushes and unwanted surfaces before it cures. If epoxy gets on surfaces that acetone will attack, use isopropyl alcohol. We do not recommend any additives for thinning epoxies due to their effect on curing and overall strength.

A small amount of CA can be used in strategic locations to hold parts in place while the epoxies cure. The minute designations for epoxies refer to the working time, i.e., the time one has before the epoxies begin to set up after being mixed in a large mass. When spread into thinner layers, the working time in increased significantly. Working time decreases approximately 25% at temperatures above 90 degrees F. Don’t panic if your skin comes in contact with either epoxy or CA.

While contact should be avoided, uncured epoxy can be washed from your skin with soap and water. Allergic reactions are rare. Cured epoxy and CA can be peeled off the skin and usually are gone after a full day of normal activity.

5 Minute:
Slightly flexible
not water proof
warms as it cures
accepts polyester resin
workable for 5 minutes
handle at 15 minutes
fully cured in 1 hour

15 Minutes
ideal for larger areas
accepts colour concentrates paste (to colour epoxy)
accepts silica or micro ballons (does shorten working time)
accepts glass fillers
perfect for fiberglass
workable for 15 minutes
handle after 45 minutes
fully cured in 2 hours

30 minute
ideal for fillets
highest strength
heat resistant
accepts all fillers (does shorten working time)
workable for 30 minutes
handle after 8 hours
cures in 24 hours

Finish Cure
low odour polyester resin substitute (eg fiberglass)
bonds to forma and wood
easy to sand
flows best at 85°F/ 30°C (place in microwave for about 10 seconds with the cap off, or use a heat gun while working) Work in a warm area
handles in 20 minutes
cures in 8 hours