Artesania Latina Bluenose II Build Tutorial Part 3

Artesania Latina Bluenose II Build – Part 3 of a Series

In this Sunward Hobbies tutorial, I’ll be continuing with Artesania Latina’s Bluenose II build with Part 3.

This section will be a little more in-depth picture wise, but it’s only to help you every step along the way. The planks are very well made and I’ve yet to see any serious warp. Sorry about the “clutter” on my bench… lots of projects on the go.

Deck with Straight Plank
Deck with Straight Plank

I was thoroughly impressed with the craftsmanship in the deck planks. Very few spots had to be sanded for slivers and the straightness was awesome. The instructions call for contact cement. Please follow the instructions from the brand you opt to use. Also, be aware you’ll have to sacrifice one of your brushes, in this case one of my Atlas medium brushes will work well. Use a brush that will not leave a huge mess, yet will cover both the underside of the plank and the deck. The tape is simply to collect the excess in one cutting.

Cement with Planks and Ship Deck
Cement with Planks and Ship Deck

Begin with one plank on either side of the marked center line obviously, but don’t forget to mark your main mast location.

Two Planks on Deck with Mast Marking
Two Planks on Deck with Mast Marking

An important step is to make any nails flush with the deck. A few passes with my Vallejo flat mini file did the job.

File on Deck with Flattened Nail
File on Deck with Flattened Nail

The wood in this model is very thirsty. I moved several inches at a time since it was drying so quickly.

Deck with a Note For Cement Application
Deck with a Note For Cement Application

As per the instructions four more planks were added. Make sure you clean up any excess cement with a blade or sharp edge.

Deck with Four Planks Added
Deck with Four Planks Added

Next the instructions call for the outer walnut deck borders. You may consider hydrating this wood since I found it split easily. A solid hour should work to make it bend enough for you to cement 3 inches at a time.

Mason Jar with Dark Wood Planks
Mason Jar with Dark Wood Planks

When you angle trim the outer plank, you’ll be able to find out if the wood has been soaked enough. Regardless, the plank has to be trimmed to fit properly to the bow wall.

Blade with Plank on Cutting Board
Blade with Plank on Cutting Board

I used a variety of clamps until finding the one that did the best job. As you can see the wood is bending just enough to make life easy. Still, move in small increments and let each length dry for 30 minutes. You can always stay busy by moving to the other side.

Cloths pins on Deck
Cloths pins on Deck
Moving to the Other Side While the Other Dries
Moving to the Other Side While the Other Dries

There is a sharper angle on the back deck which needs special attention. Move up to it but not beyond until the area has completely dried. Let this area dry for an hour.

Pins and Brush on Deck with Drying Instructions
Pins and Brush on Deck with Drying Instructions

During the dry time you can cut free the excess planks from the middle. Please save these scraps, as you never know when a small bit will work instead of using an entire new plank.

Blue Glove with Straight Edge and Blade
Blue Glove with Straight Edge and Blade

You can use the number 19 plug to draw the proper circle for the main mast insert hole. Then drill a smaller hole and finish it with a rounded file.

Vallejo File in Main Mast Insert
Vallejo File in Main Mast Insert

I’m not trying to plug a brand or one of its items. I’m just pointing out what works better than another. These Mr. Hobby part holders have great clamping strength and worked better than anything else in my vast inventory.

Parts Holders on the Outer Deck
Parts Holders on the Outer Deck

Being cautious I left some clamps on the finished side for several hours to allow the cement to fully cure to the damp wood. On the port side I spared as many as possible to ensure a proper connection. This side was left for several hours.

Many Clamps on the Port Side
Many Clamps on the Port Side

The next area of part 3 are the outer basswood planks. The only special attention they need is to butt up tight to the outer walnut planks. Be very deliberate with the length steps you do here. Don’t be afraid to use a lot of clamps.

Five Clamps Beginning the Basswood Plank
Five Clamps Beginning the Basswood Plank

Walk your cement application a few inches at a time then clamp and move along.

Entire Side Clamped with Blue Excel Clamp
Entire Side Clamped with Small Adjustable Blue Excel Clamp

Some planks will need to be sanded on the sides to mate up with the walnut. Be gentle since the thickness is only 0.4mm and not the 0.6mm as the instructions state.

Sanding Sheet with Plank on Deck
Sanding Sheet with Plank on Deck

One thing I found helpful was to clamp the uncemented section after cementing the one behind. It bends the wood slightly to make it easier to fit. Use a bit of tape if needed to help you remember where you left off.

Closely Placed Clamps with Ones Spaced Out
Closely Placed Clamps with Ones Spaced Out

Keep on going and before you know it the end will have to be trimmed. Make sure you clean up any excess cement or debris from the deck since step 4 will be more deck planking.

Many Clamps on the Port Side
Many Clamps on the Port Side

Thank you for following along with this extended tutorial. If you have any questions about the techniques or products used, please feel free to ask when you place your next Sunward Hobbies order.

If you have any questions about the products used or the methods in this article, please feel free to ask the staff when you pick up or place your next order from Sunward Hobbies.

H.G. Barnes is a former voice-over artist and retired sales and marketing professional. He’s the author of two large volume science fiction adventure romance novels with many more in the works. For well over 40 years he’s been building scale model replicas and now does commission work for clients in Canada and the USA, plus completes projects for companies in Asia and Europe.
Currently H.G. is involved as an Associate Editor with KitMaker Network’s Online Magazine Channels

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