Testing Vallejo True Metallic Metal

On an Ork Warbike

Transcript*

Intro

There’ll be no foolish one-waving or silly incantations in my class. Turn to page 394.

Hello. Good morning on this fine summer’s day. My name is Paul and welcome back to the Sunward Hobbies YouTube channel. As I’m filming this, it’s June 3rd. This is the week where we’re only a couple days away from June 6th. That is when Games Workshop opens the pre-orders or 11th Edition. Are you guys excited? Cuz I’m excited. And that is just in time because the miniature we’re painting today is the Wazdakka Gutsmek.

Basically, a really cool Orc on a really cool bike going off a rock face. Isn’t that just the coolest? This I think this is probably the coolest Orc miniature in a very long time. Um, probably ever. Maybe. That’s uh What do you guys think? Anyway, we’ll be painting this bad boy because it’s advertised essentially as an 11th Edition miniature, one of the launch uh Orc miniatures. It just released maybe like 3 weeks early, but yeah, it’s part of what is essentially a new generation, a new wave of Orc miniatures. So, we’re painting that today just in time for 11th Edition.

True Metallic Metal Book

Before we get started, I just like to quickly give a shout out to the True Metallic Metal System made by Angel Giraldez and Vallejo respectively. This is their brainchild, an incredible system, 80 paints total in the True Metallic Metal line that came out in November, December of 2025. And no stone gets left unturned. Literally, this book is so thick, full of guides. And it is incredible. Literally, everything gets used. And it also has other fun guides like how to use lighting. There’s a colour wheel. There’s even uh you know this guide right here specifically what to use and the setup.

And we even have an airbrushing guide here. Oh, that’s the brushes. Airbrushing is right here. Look at that. The setup on what you need to use. Spanish water is hilarious. Makes me chuckle every single time. But it does matter, believe it or not. So yeah, an incredible, incredible book. Comprehensive. And it even comes with a signed bookmark for every purchase. What are you waiting for? grab your copy. It is uh in the description down below on our website, sunwardhobbies.ca.

Ork Bike Mini

Here’s the bike. And I didn’t attach the Orc itself, though. It’s pretty easy to attach and cement. But that’s okay. The focus of today’s video is the bike itself, and it looks incredible. And if I’m honest, I’m kind of tempted to just snip off the rock here from the wheel and make some sort of Akira slide.

But we are not here for that. That can be decided later on my own. I am here to just show off the ruby red paint line from True Metallic Metals. So, all four will be uh Ruby Red Base, Ruby Red Light right here, Ruby Red Shade, uh the non- metallic shade that in is included in the uh paint line, and the airbrush paint of ruby red. Uh we will be showing that off on the panels because the box art has them as red.

There we go. It’s been primed with gloss black. And yes, you can add the gloss effect later. Your black primer doesn’t have to be gloss. I used Vallejo gloss varnish. And this is important for it to be gloss because it is what’s recommended and what is needed essentially for true metallic metal paint jobs and just metallic paint jobs as a whole.

True Metallic Metal Book – Page 38 Reference (Ruby Red)

Once again, we will be using page 38 with the five diagrams here, each corresponding to the five steps, 2.1 to 2.5. And they’re pretty comprehensive. Even though you’re like, wait, that’s only like a couple sentences each. Yes, it is quite comprehensive. Trust me, this is a very good book. I’ve already tried it on my personal paint jobs and on camera as well. So, you saw it with uh Custodies.

Step 1: Airbrush Application

Step one or 2.1 calls for a heavy-handed application of Ruby Red True Metallic metal airbrush paints. Now, if you aren’t aware, uh the airbrush paints, all 20 of them from the True Metallic Metal line are pre thinned for you. So, it is recommended you use an airbrush and it says so in the instruction. But the thing about these airbrush paints is that they’re actually formulated at the bottle as well to be used for brush painting.

eah, that’s crazy. You can do both. either or or simultaneously if you want. It’s breathe in for airbrushing and you can use it for brush painting. You know any airbrush paints that are like that? Vallejo are geniuses, man. That’s an insane level of formulation and they’ve done it. There we go. It looks incredibly vibrant but retaining the ruggedness of what a typical orc would use on a bike. Oh yeah, very vibrant.

Step 2: Light Application

So the next step is that we’re going to be using True Metallic Metal Ruby Light on this the tops basically of the panel. So I will basically estimate where the sun will hit it the most at the angle right cuz remember it’s launching off right like this.

Step 3: Shade Application

So for the most part it’s just going to be the tops right here. So that’s where the sun’s going. So, I’ll just estimate it and I’ll just kind of mix it in. This is basically the highlight stage. And so, just make sure you focus on where the sun hits, but also not to forget the edge or the edges of the panels plus all the raised uh detailing. So, something like this where the welds would intersect, right? You focus on that as well. That will receive a lot more typical wear and tear. And be rough. It is an orc. Well, look at that. Isn’t she lovely?

And of course, I maximized it underneath the carriage here cuz that’s where a lot of the scratches would be. It’s closer to the ground and everything. But yeah, and the front as well, the mandibles. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. 2.3 calls for the use of ruby red shade all over the panels which will blend both the light and the base together while simultaneously making it darker during the process. That’s okay. That’s natural. But what it also does is get into the recesses and sort of re-highlight what’s been covered by my paint job, which is natural for all paint jobs. That’s what a shade does. But a cool thing about the shade paints, all 20 of them for the true metallic paint line is that all of them are non- metallic.

You can use them for any and all paint jobs that basically requires a wash or a shade. Yeah, just use them for anything. In fact, Black Obsidian Black, for example, is the best black wash in water-based acrylics. So using it on a armor piece like this, you can maybe stick to the edges and the recesses and not paint the whole thing, which will give the illusion that the whole thing is darker, but really it’s just an illusion. Um, but since this is mostly flat panels, we’re going to have to put it on all of it. And there we go. The wash is dried. And it did pull at the bottom here a little bit, but that’s okay because the next step will allow us to recover all that and do a little bit more.

Step 4: Light & Base Application

Basically 2.4 or step four calls for a mix of Light Ruby Red and Base Ruby Red. So 50/50 and it will be gently dry brushed all over the panels. It is also telling us to keep the dry brushing onto the more the raised areas. Uh, and because it is a mix 50/50 of light and base, we’re acquiring a midtone in addition to recovering the lost luster of because shades naturally matte down a panel. Uh, so we’re recovering both things here. So, which is nice. As always, I’ll be using my favorite dry brush, Vallejo’s XL Dry Brush. Here we go. A tail as old as time.

We grab our dry brush, grab paper towel, and just remove about 90% to 95% of all the paint. So, yeah, here we go. We’re ready. I just used a little too much paint, but that’s okay. Be careful. Remove the majority of the excess. And all we got to do is just lightly hit the panels where you think the sun will shine the most. Basically, the raised detailing. And doing this will recover both the luster of the panels and the midtones. You can go heavy, you can go light, but as long as you basically focus on the edges and raise details, you’re okay.

And there we go. So, this is dry brushed about a medium to heavy. This is where we’re going to differ. Now, if you’re following along, you may have chosen to just uh apply a light dry brushing. I went with medium. I would say medium to heavy. Um, so it recovered a lot of its luster and the midtones, but we can actually take this further with the final step.

Step 5: Light Application Again – On Edges

Step five calls for a return to using light by itself as an edge highlight. This will be a deliberate edge highlighting attempt largely over the edges. And we will be using shade going back to it but like heavily diluted which will be a glaze basically to remix whatever edge highlighting you apply so it doesn’t overly uh shine just sort of tone it down a little bit. That’s the plan right now.

The idea with the final step 2.5 is basically see how with the dry brushing all the areas that are more flat and pronounced they got extremely bright. Um, so with 2.5, the edges got more pronounced, but at the same time, anything flatter that’s more pronounced got toned down a little bit. So, we’re putting the emphasis onto the edges rather than the raised flat panels, which should make for a nicer figure overall. And here we go.

Retouching

The edges have been highlighted. And to be fair, you can stop right here, but we’re going to continue with the final final step, which is 2.5.2, essentially Ruby Red Shade, but toned down. So, my recommendation is one drop to three drops of water. Um, and we’re going to be using it on the more inside sort of panels there to make it a little bit more red. Um, because only the edges and the raised details are supposed to be that scratched up or bleached from the sun or damaged, etc., etc. So, for example, this jaw here on the front of the wheels, the innermost part of that, that’s where we’re going to be focusing the glazing on. Um, but honestly, you can stop right here if you want.

Final Look

And here we go. The final result. And it’s still wet in some places, but yet regardless of that, we have nicely recovered some of the red, making it stand out even more uh complete with and blended with the rest of the paint job. And if you don’t believe me, let’s actually put it side by side with the image Vallejo has provided. And as you can see, it’s the same. Yes, there’s no similarities with the armor versus the haphazard slap panels of the Orcs, but same hue, same paint job. Vallejo isn’t really lying on their images. We proved this in the previous video uh wheun I did this previously with the gold. Now with the red. And again, well done, Vallejo. Well done, Angel. This is a killer paint job. And once I finish this uh on my own terms, because this is actually a really complicated, uh kit to paint, uh it will look spectacular with the ruby red panels. Wow. Wow. Wow. Wow. What do you guys think of the paint job? Did it satisfy?

Paul’s Conclusion

Uh regardless of what you thought, uh this is the book that keeps on giving. It’s an incredible guide book with tons of variety of paint jobs and guides, and all of it is beginner friendly and approachable despite the complexity and detail it provides. It’s honestly such a well- balanced book. This is probably my my favorite guide book of all time, and I’ve worked here for over 6 years, so that should say something. And uh yeah, both the book and the bike is available on our website right now, sunwardhobbies.ca. Links in the description down below. Well, that’s it for me today. Thank you guys so much for watching. And if you enjoyed this video, like and follow, like and subscribe and uh follow us on all our social media platforms as well. So, all of that links in the description down below as well. Thank you guys. Till next time. Bye-bye.

About the Author:

Paul Catindig As someone who’s been building model kits since he was 8 years old, Paul is very knowledgeable and adept at model kit building! When he’s not building or painting kits, he spends his free time cooking, playing video games with friends, or at a restaurant patio somewhere. Hopes to make his very own movie one day.

*Video by Paul Catindig
Video Edited by Daniela Castellano
Transcript generated by youtube
Edited by Angelo Castellano

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