Decal Setting Solutions

Tech-Tips by Harvey

Many modellers are familiar with Decal Setting Solutions, while others are less so. Regardless of your plastic model skill level, here are some tips I have accumulated over the years that may help you with expert results in decaling!

First what do these “solvents” do? Well, they are water-based agents that work with the decals to soften them so they settle down smoothly and tightly over the model’s surface details such as curves, rivets and panel lines. They also ensure a strong adhesion so they do not rub-off or lift easily. The end goal of these decal solutions is to make decals look like they were applied on by the original ground crew or manufacturer!

Decal Setting Solutions first entered the model scene as I recall as far back as the late 1970’s or early 80’s. The first to appear on the scene was SOLVASET. It is still widely available today and has not changed its formula in well over 45 years. Since then, however, many brands have appeared and here is a list of them as far as I know – many of which are available at Sunward:

MicroSet and MicroSol
MicroSet and MicroSol

Micro Set and MicroSol Decal Solvent

TIP: Buy these two products together as they work in tandem. Micro SOL goes on the surface and decal first, while MICRO SET goes on a few minutes later, last to soften it to conform over irregular surface details.

AK Interactive and VMS
AK Interactive and VMS

Decal Adapter Solution AK Interactive AK582

TIP: Use this product to soften decals over any type of surface. It is much stronger than the AK Decal Softener.

AK Decal Softener AK330

TIP: Unlike AK Adapter Solution, this product is made for scale models and decals over painted styrene.

VMS Decal Set and Soften 2 in 1 AX09

TIP: Like Micro Sol/Set, this product does the same but only has one application thus the 2-in-1 label.

Ammo by Mig Decal Set and Decal Fix
Ammo by Mig Decal Set and Decal Fix

TIP: Buy these two products together as they work in tandem. SET goes on first, while FIX goes on a few minutes later, last.

 

AK Interactive Mark Soften and Mark Fit
Vallejo 73213 Mr Mark Soften MS231and Tamiya Mark Fit 87102

TIPS:
All these products work the same way, and are applied the same way by brush. But here are some tips:

1) Always apply a good gloss coat to the area before applying decals. I find that on aircraft, I airbrush the whole aircraft with gloss before decaling. For armour, I only do the areas where the decals will go (e.g., turret area etc.). For some smaller decals, you can use a fine brush and hand apply some acrylic based gloss finished like Gauzy or the old Testors Acryls if you still have any left (they are no longer available but you can find them at shows sometimes).

2) ALWAYS test the decal solutions first on a spare decal. Each solution may react differently to a decal.

3) Apply some water or decal solution (does not matter) to the surface before applying the decal.

4) Adjust the position of the decal where you want it with a toothpick. Don’t use anything sharp like a needle as you might damage the decal when re-positioning it when it is still “wet”.

5) Brush away from the centre of the decal outwards, to ensure there are no air bubbles. For models with ribbing such as fabric covered aircraft, I always brush away excess water and solution in the same direction as the ribs.

6) Use the sharp edge of a tissue or cotton swab to remove any excess water, but do this gently as you do not want to move the decal once you have it in the right position.

7) For two-part decal setting products (e.g., Micro Set/Sol) let the decal dry for a few seconds before applying the final setting solution.

8) Apply another thin gloss coat over the decals to seal them, and let dry.

9) Apply your final FLAT pr SEMI-GLOSS coat over the entire model.

10) MOST IMPORTANT! Once you apply the final coat of setting solution, DO NOT TOUCH IT. It may wrinkle but let it dry and “set” on its own. I always let it dry completely for 7-8 hours.

11) If you find silvering or air bubbles, use a sharp needle and poke holes in those areas and re-apply decal solution.

12) While testing all of these, I find they are all relatively the same with the only exception being SOLVASET. This product is the strongest of them all and should be tested on spare decals before use on your final model.

Here are some examples of my models where I used Decal Setting Solutions:

Tamiya A6M3 Zero
Tamiya A6M3 Zero

1/72 Tamiya A6M3 Zero (side fuselage marking, and tail codes)

1-48 Scale B-17D

1/48 B-17D (used decal solution on old Koster decal of Swoose emblem)

1/35 Meng Panther G

1/35 Meng Panther G (turret numbers)

1/48 Eva Models Caproni Ca-133T

1/48 Eva Models Caproni Ca-133T (side fuselage markings and tail emblem)

About the Author:

Harvey Low has been building plastic models since age eight and fast-forward fifty years and he is still building. Now professionally full-time for clients, museums, and magazines. He has written well over thirty articles for mainstream magazines such as FineScale Modeler, and Scale Aircraft Modelling. His specific interests are WW2 Japanese and Italian subjects.

Harvey has been competing in model contests since 1981. He has competed internationally and in 2018 achieved Master Class at the US AMPS national convention. Harvey currently helps run the local Toronto chapters of IPMS and AMPS Fort York Armour modelling club.

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