Revell 1980 Ford Bronco Bass Boat and Trailer Set Build Final Part 6

Ford Bronco Bass Boat & Trailer Build Final Part 6

In this Sunward Hobbies build tutorial article I’ll be finishing the “Gone Fishing”. An amazing model with plenty of options which you can build so many different options. You will see decal adjustments and the added fine detail parts. The Revell 1980 Ford Bronco with Bass Boat and Trailer Set Gone Fishin 1/24 Scale 17242 85-7242

We left off with a rough up of the boat trailer and truck. Now let us dive into the accents which bring this replica to life.

Rear view on a black board
Rear view on a black board

Be cautious when snipping these chrome parts from the sprue tree. They are very fragile, thus hold the part as you use your side cutters. Any minor slip-ups in masking and painting can be dealt with with some panel line accent.

Chrome parts added at step 44
Chrome parts added at step 44

I find that any wood looking areas are best airbrushed. Here, you can see this small lid being masked off with Tamiya tape products. Hand painting may serve you well in some instances, yet airbrushing pulls out the detail which the manufacturers have molded into the plastic.

Step 45 in progress
Step 45 in progress

Step forty-five does have a lot going on with it. After you add the light grey tone to the seat area, mask it off. Remember, it is always best to put down lighter colours first.

AK Interactive Pro product beside the masked part
AK Interactive Xtreme Metal Pro product beside the masked part

With the blue, white and aluminium added you can see the wonderful differences your model will turn out to become. There are a few decals to add which will further enhance the look.

Multiple jars at step 45
Multiple jars at step 45 including Microscale Micro Set

To get the part snug to the side and deck I would recommend a slower reacting cement for the base. Follow this up with some extra thin cement for the side wall and clamp it secure.

Two types of Tamiya product with a clamp between
Two types of Tamiya product with a clamp between

Naturally there is a licence plate for the trailer. Revisit the previous article to show this can easily be done. It is your call if the plate goes under the left lights or the fenders.

Trailer plate installed
Trailer plate installed

Use the tip of a toothpick to add the black on to the gauges and buttons. Later, you can add some clear coat that will give the appearance of lenses. Make sure to let this spot dry for several hours prior to installing because there are no connection points and you will have to wiggle this around.

Step 46 and 47 complete
Step 46 and 47 complete

The edges of clear parts must be cleaned up or they never fit snuggly. Attach the fish finder part first super close to the control
Panel. The two small decals add great life.

Step 48 completed
Step 48 completed

Before adding any of the parts that can be snapped off, I would jump ahead and do the bumpers. Yes, there is a bit of masking to be done, but the result is very sharp. Consider using an off black colour.

Sprayed tummy belt
Sprayed tummy belt

Hand paint or airbrush the area with a clear coat. You will not just protect the recently added paint but allow the decals to glide more smoothly into position.

Tamiya X-22 below the hull part
Tamiya X-22 below the hull part

Now that the tummy belt area has dried you can add a few details. Add the bigger parts first to avoid knocking off the smaller ones.

Step 50 completed
Step 50 completed

I will leap ahead to step fifty-two because the decals need to be applied first. While one part is curing you can finish another way in advance, depending on your build schedule. There was some plastic flash to remove from this part, but when it was cleaned up and painted the decals pop!

Outboard motor completed
Outboard motor completed

The main motor has some work to be done to fill areas at the back and front. The decals will hide some of this, yet I would recommend picking up a set of thin abrasives from the Sunward Hobbies store to get into those tight spots.

Step 53 completed
Step 53 completed

Just as with the truck, the boat decals are one part. Flood the area first with a setting solution then work them into place. Once the aft end is aligned, dry it off and then move along to the tip. I strongly recommend a part holding device that you can get from the store.

Hull decals in place
Hull decals in place

With the side decals now dry you add some fun details. The outboard looks splendid with all the minor paint added to the cables.

Step 52 completed
Step 52 completed

The seat parts need special attention. Do not add them at the same time. Core out the holes with a blade so the post will go down all the way, then align it as true as you want before moving the next one.

Bow seat added
Bow seat added

In step 56 you will definitely have to flood the area with water and a setting solution. The wrap around decals will be a pain otherwise. Also, the instructions have some in the wrong place, so use your better judgement.

Step 56 completed
Step 56 completed

Be sure to remove the paint from the connection areas where the motor fits with the boat. You may also have to stretch the parts a little to get them to conform.

Main motor attached
Main motor attached

That sums up the build. Now for an added look. Here I am measuring for a base.

Ruler below the model
Ruler below the model

It is critical to have enough space on the base to clear the motor.

Ruler at the aft
Ruler at the aft

Some simple skewers and flocking you can buy from the store. A day spent on this will add a tremendous look to your project.

Basic diorama
Basic diorama

And we are ready to go fishing.

Completed model on its base
Completed model on its base

If you have any questions about the products used in this article, please feel free to ask the staff when you pick up or place your next order from Sunward Hobbies.

G. Barnes is a former voice-over artist and retired sales and marketing professional. He’s the author of two large volume science fiction adventure romance novels with many more in the works. For well over 40 years he’s been building scale model replicas and now does commission work for clients in Canada and the USA, plus completes projects for companies in Asia and Europe.
Currently H.G. is involved as an Associate Editor with KitMaker Network’s Online Magazine Channels.

Final Post for this build.
Previous Post: Part 5
First Post: Part 1

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